Going Custom: Is It Right for You?

Influences & Design School:

As we enter Kathryn Bass’s pure (something) studio space, we are given a warm welcome, not only by Kathryn, but also by her small pup, Annie. The studio feels like a comfy boudoir—at once feminine, personal, and professional.

The sunlight streams through the large windows, cascading onto a row of wedding dresses huddled against the far wall. Each dress is unique, but all are imbued with Kathryn’s distinctive sensibility.

Gowns from pure(something)

Kathryn has been sewing since she was a little girl, learning first from her grandmother and then an influential high school teacher. This teacher encouraged and helped her with the “crazy things” she was working on—no doubt projects that far exceeded course requirements. It was this teacher who urged her to consider design school.

Initially, Kathryn attended a ten-month intensive program at the Helen Lefeaux School of Design, then headed to Montreal for a further three years of training at the College LaSalle. Bitter cold and a love of the coast brought her back to Vancouver.

Fabrics: Luxurious Silk, a Bride Favourite

Pure (something) clothing co. has been in business six years and in this studio for about three years. Although Kathryn began by making custom women’s wear, she later migrated to wedding attire. “I always liked designing pretty things,” she tells us, “and that would sometimes get me into trouble at school.” And pretty things her dresses are indeed: feminine, soft, and impeccably tailored silk yarn, piece-dyed taffeta, and chiffons.

While she purchases her fabrics locally according to availability, most are brought in from the U.S.  Kathryn tells us that chiffon is more difficult to work with, no doubt because, as a light-weight crepe, it can pucker slightly in both directions. Still, she seems to relish the challenge.  What is apparent is this woman loves to design and to sew.

Why Go Custom?

There are several distinct advantages to buying a custom gown or dress. The first, of course, is that you get exactly what you want. Although you may like a detail or two on a gown, say the neckline or the sleeves, you may also dislike the way a dress fits, the fabric, or other design elements.  With a custom gown, however, clients are able to bring together several features they like—with design guidance of an expert.

The second advantage of a custom gown is that you will get an absolutely perfect fit. According to Kathryn, alterations on a salon bought wedding dress usually cost about thirty percent of the off-the-rack price.  When you purchase a custom gown, alterations are part of the fitting process. (We’ll discuss this in the next section.)               

The third factor is timing. Most bridal salons require a four to six month wait while the gown is assembled overseas. Although a custom gown can take anywhere from twenty to more than one hundred hours to complete depending on the intricacy, the local designer is able to offer flexibility in accommodating shorter timelines.

The fourth and perhaps most satisfying reason for going custom is that you are assured no other bride will have the same dress. Custom is synonymous with exclusivity.

And Why Not Go Custom?

Somewhat surprisingly, Kathryn tells us that “not all brides are meant for a custom dress.” She explains that some brides-to-be need to see the dress in its entirety from the get go. They are anxious about their dress existing only as an idea on paper.

There is a perception that custom is more expensive than store bought. However, at pure(something) the average price for a gown is a very reasonable $1,500.00 to $2,200.00. Higher and lower budgets can be accommodated. With custom, you are primarily paying for the designer’s talent, time, and materials, and only secondarily for operating expenses. In contrast, with a salon you are primarily paying for that salon and the label, and only secondarily for the actually workmanship (likely done overseas). Akin to a state secret, the markup on a salon gown reportedly ranges anywhere from a whopping 300-600%. Wide discrepancies between salons—some of which are located in the same city—are the only clue customers may get of the markup.

The Initial Consultation

Clients considering a custom gown from pure(something) come to the studio for a complimentary consultation. While some brides-to-be arrive with a firm vision for their gown, others are less sure. However, we are told that “most clients, who say they have no idea what they want, actually do. When we start to look at magazine tears and at my samples, they pretty much know what they like and what they don’t like.”

Complimentary Initial Consultation

In order to get exactly what she wants, the client chooses design elements from sample dresses, magazines, photographs, and dresses seen elsewhere. To quell my curiosity, I ask Kathryn if she is ever asked to imitate a dress in its entirety—or, to put it more bluntly, make a ‘knock-off.’  “Yes,” she says unhesitatingly, “but this request is usually by clients who don’t have a clear idea about what a designer actually does. Once I explain what a custom dress really is, the issue gets cleared up.” Out of respect for her own talent and that of other designers, she will not replicate a dress.

And, rather than offering a collection or set of designs, she may incorporate into her own signature designs details or silhouettes the client has seen elsewhere.  Quite often she presents suggestions for design elements that clients have not seen before on any dress. The result is a blend of the unique and the familiar.

The Fitting

After a design is chosen and a pattern drafted, a cotton version of the dress is readied for the first fitting. This dress is a no frills version of the final dress and is made simply for fit and alteration. After this initial fitting, there are two-to-four additional fittings, all before the final dress is made. Clients love to see the dress come together over time and they appreciate the fact that the dress can be altered several times during the process.

Dresses, Veils, & Accessories

Along with wedding dresses, pure(something) makes dresses for the bridesmaids and the flower-girl, as well as for the mothers of the bride and groom.  Pure(something) also makes formal dresses for all other occasions.

In addition, she makes custom veils, garters, ring pillows, and floral headpieces.                 We also spied some handmade jewelry, made by a local designer who uses Swarovksi products.

We came away from our visit at pure(something) with an enlightened view on what choosing a custom gown entails.  At pure(something) there was no snootiness or pretension, but rather a genuine desire to make the bride’s dreams come true.

Visit: Pure(something clothing co.) #350-440 West Hastings Street. Vancouver, BC 604.505.4413